The Golden Eagle ferry coming across the river
The Golden Eagle ferry runns across the Mississippi River connecting O’Fallon, Missouri, with the southern part of Calhoun County. Photo by David Torrence

A narrow peninsula nestled between the Illinois and Mississippi rivers in southwest Illinois, Calhoun County consists of Hardin, Kampsville, Batchtown, Brussels, Golden Eagle, Michael, Mozier and Hamburg.

Named after Vice President John C. Calhoun and officially organized in 1825, early habitants date back to the Early Archaic era – 6,400 to 3,900 B.C.E.

With a population of approximately 5,000 people, the county lies not far from St. Louis and offers tranquility from the bustling city with the quaint countryside and farmland known for summer peaches and apples in the fall.

“People in Calhoun County are extremely friendly. You can walk down the street and strike up a conversation with anyone you meet,” says Jane Brangenberg, Calhoun County Farm Bureau manager. “The spring is beautiful with all the trees in bloom, and each town has its own summer celebrations and activities, including fireworks, river races, hiking, horseback riding and fishing.”

A summer visit to Calhoun County isn’t complete without riding one of its famous ferries, tasting a scrumptious peach or exploring the vast wildlife.

Peaches at a roadside stand in Calhoun County
Photo by David Torrence

1. Family-Owned Orchards

Because Calhoun County sits between the Illinois and Mississippi rivers, it has an ideal climate for growing peaches and apples, with many family-owned orchards found throughout the county. Hagen Family Orchard is 3 miles from the Brussels Ferry and has been in business for more than 80 years. The Hagens grow peaches, apples and pumpkins, and the orchard is open daily from mid-July through October. Operating for more than 100 years, Jacobs Orchard & Farms in Golden Eagle grows more than 20 varieties of peaches and many vegetables, and customers can pick their own or choose pre-picked options. Also in Golden Eagle is Weigel Orchards (Sharecropper Farms LLC), a sixth-generation family-owned-and-operated farm and orchard.

The Grafton Ferry
Photo by Great Rivers & Routes Tourism Bureau of Southwest Illinois

2. River Ferries

The easiest way in and out of Calhoun County is by one bridge or by ferry since it is bound on the west and south by the Mississippi River and on the east by the Illinois River. Operated for free by the Illinois Department of Transportation are the Brussels Ferry, north of Grafton, which crosses the Illinois River, and the Kampsville Ferry, serving northeast Calhoun County and the northeastern tip of the peninsula on the Illinois River. The Golden Eagle is a paid ferry running across the Mississippi River connecting O’Fallon, Missouri, with the southern part of the county. The Winfield Ferry crosses the Mississippi River near Winfield, Missouri. It operates at times when the Golden Eagle Ferry isn’t running due to high water levels. All the ferries operate from dawn to late evening throughout the summer, and most offer visitor information and sell local maps.

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Trail sign at Two Rivers National Wildlife Refuge in Calhoun County
Photo by David Torrence

3. Two Rivers National Wildlife Refuge

A habitat for migratory birds, the Two Rivers National Wildlife Refuge in Brussels is a sanctuary to experience nature. With 9,225 acres of riverine and floodplain habitats, it’s located at the confluence of the Illinois and Mississippi rivers. The refuge is home to mammals, amphibians, fish, reptiles, bees, butterflies, wildflowers, grasslands and trees. It also has more than 300 species of birds, including herons, woodpeckers, egrets, warblers, waterfowl and bald eagles. The refuge opens Monday through Friday from 8 a.m. to 4 p.m. year-round.

A 19th-century log cabin at the McCully Heritage Project
Photo by Michelle Berg/McCully Heritage Project

4. McCully Heritage Project

With a focus on environmental education, research and preservation, the McCully Heritage Project outside Kampsville offers 940 acres of serene wildlife in the lower Illinois River Valley. Visitors can explore a demonstration hill prairie plot and a 19th-century historic log cabin, along with deer, foxes, wild turkeys, bobcats and various birds. Offering 15 miles of shaded trails for hiking and horseback riding plus two ponds for fishing and turtle watching, it can be ideal for summer outings with picnic tables, a large pavilion and restrooms available from dawn to dusk.

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Boy chopping a log with an axe
Archeology Days; Photo by Center for American Archeology

5. Center for American Archeology

Step back in time to discover 12,000 years of Illinois history at the Center for American Archeology, where research, history and education meet. The center offers field and public programs, demonstrations and daily tours open to the public each afternoon. Reopening in the summer of 2023, the museum will offer different exhibits going back to the area’s earliest inhabitants. Don’t miss Archeology Day, a free public event, held annually in July.

“This is a unique region of the country with a rich archaeology record, and the center offers a chance for everyone to experience this history while seeing a site being actively excavated,” says Jason King, executive director of the center.

Exterior of Straight Home Bar & Grill
Photo by Straight Home Bar & Grill

6. Straight Home Bar & Grill

Located a mile north of the Highway 100 lift bridge, Straight Home Bar & Grill in Hardin is known for its weekday lunch specials like meatloaf, chicken fried steak and catfish. They also offer a popular steak special every Friday and Saturday night, Monday night wing specials and $1 dine-in tacos on Tuesdays. With indoor and outdoor seating and takeout options, they are open Monday through Thursday from 9 a.m. to 1 a.m. and Friday through Sunday from 9 a.m. to 2 a.m.

7. The Barefoot

Overlooking the Illinois River on Water Street with a view of the Joe Page Bridge, The Barefoot in Hardin reopened in 2022 with new owners after being closed for three years due to flood damage. Customers enjoy many original items from the old menu, such as fish fritters, chicken, prime rib and salads. The Barefoot opens Tuesday through Sunday from 10:30 a.m. to 9 p.m.

Someone walking into the Brussels Historic Village Jail
Photo by David Torrence

8. Brussels Historic Village Jail

Built around 1876 in the heart of the village, the Brussels Historic Village Jail is a small building with two beds and a table. Locals say the size of the jail is similar to an old-fashioned outhouse where inmates were known to stand up to sleep due to its tight quarters. Known as the “calaboose,” it mostly housed intoxicated men until 1952, when it was last used as a jail. Open seven days a week, visitors can read a fact sheet framed inside.

Learn more about things to do in Calhoun County in this Partners podcast:

Listen to “Road Trip Pt. 3: Peachy Places” on Spreaker.

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